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Sydney has many beautiful beaches. So, Terence decided it was time to check out the surf so he put on his sun-screen and hit the beach.
Terence visited Bondi beach, where he met a Surf Lifesaver.
Surf Lifesavers patrol most of the popular beaches in Australia. Their job is to help and protect people who swim in the ocean. There are 262 Surf Life Saving Clubs in Australia with over 80,000 members, from children to adults.
Terence asked the Surf Lifesaver about some of the dangers of swimming in the surf. The Surf Lifesaver told Terence about rips.
Terence discovered that a rip is a strong current running out to sea. Rips usually occur when a channel forms between the shore and a sandbar, and large waves have built up water which then returns to the sea. The Surf Lifesaver told Terence what to look for in the surf:
- darker coloured water, which indicates deeper water
- murky brown water caused by sand being stirred up from the bottom
- a smoother surface on the water with much smaller waves, alongside
- white water waves breaking further out to sea
- debris floating out to sea
- and a rippled look to the water, when the water around is generally calm.
Terence was so interested and learning that he also asked the Surf Lifesaver about waves. Terence did not realise that there were different types of waves. Did you? He found out that waves are caused by wind blowing over the surface of the ocean and was told about plunging waves, spilling waves and surging waves. His Lifesaver friend said:
Plunging or dumping waves break with force and usually occur where sandbanks are shallow, especially at low tide.
Spilling waves are waves where the crest tumbles down the face. If the sandbank where it breaks is shallow, the spilling crest will form a 'tube'. These are great waves for body surfing.
And surging waves never break, because the water beneath them is deep, but they can knock people off their feet and drag them back out to sea.
Terence met a surfer who gave him some tips on surf safety. What do you think he told Terence to do?
He told Terence to:
- always swim between the red and yellow flags,
- only swim at beaches that are patrolled by surf lifesavers or lifeguards,
- always read and obey the signs on the beach
- always swim with a friend and
- don't to swim just after he has eaten.
His new friend also gave Terence advice on what to do if he ever got into trouble while swimming in the surf. He told him:
- don't panic
- just float with the current and
- raise your arm to signal for help.
As Terence was slithering along the beach he found a strange sign and climbed up to take a better look.
Do you know what it means?
This sign warns people that bluebottles may be in the ocean. Bluebottles float in the water with their long tentacles hanging below. These tentacles cause a sharp painful sting if they are touched.
Terence visited Bronte swimming pool and took a ride on a young swimmer's hat. Terence found out that all Australian children are encouraged to learn to swim when they are very young.
Terence was so excited about his big day at the beach all he had learned about the surf, that when he got back to his friends at the Australian Museum he asked where he could find out more information about safe surfing. We told him to visit the Surf Life Saving Association.
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